A Dissection of Fine Dining

June 26, 2012 in Food And Drink

Fine dining is an almost blessed event. The ambiance, the richness of the flavor, the inevitable sticker shock for two scoops of ice cream or a cup of coffee – when done correctly, all the elements blend together to create an unforgettable experience of satiety. When done incorrectly, it is a painful lesson in economics and indigestion.

“Would you like to hear the specials?”

The dance begins.

Invariably the list will include at least one fish special. This is, of course, nonsense and should be ignored, although the waiter will go through great pains to describe how amazing it is. Under no circumstance is trout ever special. Or flounder or bass or any fish whatsoever. This is why most “special” fish concoctions feature the aquatic bastard stuffed with something or thickly glazed with something else in order to make it taste less like fish.

To be honest, I’m always a bit hesitant with the specials, because you have to wonder exactly why, if the dish is so spectacular, that it’s not a regular offering? And what was the inspiration for this supposed special? Did the chef watch an old rerun of Julia Child? Did his homosexual lover scream “mango salsa” at a particularly intimate moment? Perhaps both…?

One glance at the wine list and he’s at it again. “I noticed you are looking at our wine list,” he observes and repeats aloud. “Would you like me to send over our wine steward to help with your selection this evening?”

“No, that will not be necessary,” I say. “I can read and have noted your exorbitant pricing structure.” I don’t say that last part, but I think it really, really hard in case he is telepathic.

With regard to the wine list, it is important to take a moment and establish that most people wouldn’t know a “good” wine if an oak barrel full of the stuff fell on top of them. Sure, there are a handful of folks out there who can tell you the history of vines across the world and the reasons why certain regions are better for certain grapes. This may be more useful than my former hobby of collecting comic books, but only just slightly.

Once, in a side-by-side comparison, I distinguished between two different Rieslings produced by the same vineyard, and I actually preferred the taste and complexity of the more expensive wine. This should impress you, because mine is a palate refined on Combos and the occasional box of Cap’n Crunch. Also surprising was that the better wine was only two dollars more, which brought the price up to a whopping nine dollars a bottle. I purchased two.

Unless you are trying to impress someone by ordering an expensive bottle of wine, make it easy on yourself. Go to a wine tasting or two, try a bunch of different wines, and write down the names of the types of wine you prefer, along with years and vineyards, if possible. Chances are that an inexpensive or reasonably priced wine from California or Washington will do quite nicely. Then, when you’re at the restaurant, if you like Chardonnay, order Chardonnay.

True story: I was at a fancy restaurant with a large group of coworkers. One guy was looking intently at the wine list, no doubt trying to find just the right bottle of wine (read: much more expensive than he’d ever buy himself, but not so expensive that the boss would shame his gluttonous ass in front of everyone else). Before he could embarrass himself by reciting important sounding wine terms to anyone within earshot, I ordered two bottles of a relatively inexpensive California red for the table (I recognized the brand). Everyone complimented me on my choice.

You can also ignore the “pairing” nonsense. A Cabernet Sauvignon can be particularly appealing with bone-in ribeye – unless you don’t like the taste of Cabernet Sauvignon. Then, you’ve wasted at least $15 on a glass of stuff that’s just going to sit there when you order up a Sprite chaser. The best wines in the world are the wines that you enjoy. Everything else is just overpriced grape juice.

Back to the restaurant. “I’ll have the petite filet,” I decide, bracing for the inevitable follow-up questions.

“Are you sure you wouldn’t prefer our king cut, sir?” This is no doubt a passive aggressive dig at my, shall we say, non-slender appearance.

“No, the petite is fine, thank you,” I respond.

“And what temperature would you like?”

By temperature, he is asking how I would like my steak cooked, not whether I think it’s a bit nippy in the restaurant. The problem here is that chefs can’t quite seem to agree on the definitions of rare, medium rare, medium, medium well, and well done. You and I don’t seem to have a problem grasping the concept, but there is a distressing lack of consistency in this regard in fine dining establishments across the country.

“Medium well,” I say, figuring it will actually come out medium, which is what I really want.

“Very good, sir,” he says, noting my decision. “Would you like your steak butterflied?”

“Do a lot of your patrons order butterflies on their steaks?”

A blank stare. Not everyone appreciates steak humor.

There is a cloud of suspicion throughout the rest of the ordering process. He braces with each side order, each question about soup and salad options, waiting for more comedic references he will not understand. But I do not have an endless supply of fine dining quips, and the rest of order is completed without incident.

Then comes the waiting. Fine dining is not meant to be shoveled in like a microwaved pot pie; it is to be savored. Once the initial rush of water and bread is complete, there is a measured, almost lackadaisical pace between courses. Granted, meals prepared from scratch using the finest ingredients and often complicated procedures take time to prepare. But let’s be honest: They stretch out the courses by at least an extra ten minutes to see if any of their ADD-afflicted customers will crack.

The courses come and go. The waiter pulls out what looks like a folded straight razor between them to clean the crumbs from the table. Crumbs on white linen, of course, are a horrid reminder of the enjoyment during the previous course and must be removed.

I want to risk a joke about ketchup when the meal arrives, but I realize that some heretics actually put ketchup on steak. Others will cover their steak with bleu cheese or béarnaise sauce. They think it is elegant, but it is a travesty and must be discouraged. I don’t even like to order steak fries on the off chance that the ketchup (a perfectly appropriate condiment for fries, no matter the venue) catches a corner of my filet and taints the experience. My steak remains untarnished, my joke remains unspoken.

By the time the final bill is presented in its glorious Corinthian leather holder, any effort to fit into high society has been scuttled. I slouch in my chair, delirious in my caloric overload, trying ever so discreetly to unclip my belt buckle and release the growing intestinal pressure. It is only in this bleary-eyed, semi-catatonic state that a bill so high, complete with a built-in twenty percent gratuity, can be dismissed with a credit card without pause. The waiter hopes that in my stupor I will overlook the exorbitant tip and add a second. Alas, he has no cleavage, so there is still part of my mind clear enough for simple math.

I tip the valet (his gratuity was not included on the bill) and I leave content, despite the fact that my car seat has been moved forward to the point where I nearly sit on my testicles as I wrench my bloated body into position. I know there are Crunch Berries waiting for me in the morning, but at least for tonight, life is a celebration of perfectly seared cow flesh, expertly crafted mashed potatoes, and a gratuitous slice of cheesecake.

  • http://wordsmoker.com/help/members-3/chillbearlatrigue/ Chillbear Latrigue

    This, my friend, is a twenty-eight ounce skirt steak.

    IMG_1104

    I eat them at a restaurant called Argentango Grill in Downtown Hollywood. The boast that they are the “Home of the World’s Longest Steak,” which is stupid because, while length of meat may be important in some arenas, it means very little in steak houses. With that said, their steaks are excellent. If you find that you can’t finish your steak, I’ll eat the rest for you. I’ve eaten as much as forty ounces of steak there.

    • http://wordsmoker.com/help/members-3/misslinda/ misslinda

      Perhaps you slipped into a meat coma and forgot that we were there, with Perverseus. I think. All of Florida looks the same to me, but I’m pretty sure we were surrounding a table filled with large slabs of meat.

      • http://wordsmoker.com/help/members-3/chillbearlatrigue/ Chillbear Latrigue

        We were actually at Angus—Argentango’s fierce rival. I haven’t like the skirt steak the last couple of times that I’ve been at Angus. Their other cuts are still a good bang for the buck.

        • http://wordsmoker.com/help/members-3/misslinda/ misslinda

          Whew! Okay, so this did happen. For a second I thought that maybe I was dreaming the whole thing, which really isn’t the worst dream in the world, being surrounded by Wordsmoker’s finest and massive quantities of meat.

  • http://wordsmoker.com/help/members-3/kausaustralisandsaturn/ Worthless Emo

    My diet consists of Tim Hortons and Subway.

  • http://wordsmoker.com/help/members-3/militantrubberducky/ MilitantRubberDucky

    Your little wine rant automatically reminded me of this.

    I am one of those heathens who put steak sauce on steaks. I can’t help it. I think part of the problem is that they don’t season the steaks, they just drop them on and take them off, and it’s just….bland.

    • http://wordsmoker.com/help/members-3/chillbearlatrigue/ Chillbear Latrigue

      “When you eat steak, you murder a cow. When you put sauce on a steak, you murder the cow’s soul.” – Mahatma Gandhi (noted rebel)

  • http://wordsmoker.com/help/members-3/perverseus/ perverseus

    @MRD: I forgive you and am praying for your soul.

  • http://wordsmoker.com/help/members-3/latterdaylenin/ Latterday Lenin

    Fish special = “Oh, this trout’s gonna go bad soon… better put it on special.”

    Also, while I generally agree with your observations about the stuffing and glazing of fish, there was this place I used to eat in Oregon that served crab-encrusted halibut, and that shit was the shit.

    • http://wordsmoker.com/help/members-3/chillbearlatrigue/ Chillbear Latrigue

      I think ordering fish in a seafood restaurant is one of the finest things a man can do. Well, with regard to eating fish. But if you go to a steak place and order seafood, you’re out of your fucking mind. You also shouldn’t order a steak in a seafood restaurant.

      Come to think of it, I’ve also seen some idiots order things like spaghetti and chicken parmesan sandwiches at places like IHOP and TGI Fridays. Actually stay away from acronym restaurants all together.

      • http://wordsmoker.com/help/members-3/latterdaylenin/ Latterday Lenin

        Especially if it’s called YOLO.

        • http://wordsmoker.com/help/members-3/chillbearlatrigue/ Chillbear Latrigue

          YOLO

          Yeah, we have one. It’s a douchey as you’d think. A lot of hair plugs topping $400 “casual” shirts. The star of The Officer’s Monologue loves it there.

          • http://wordsmoker.com/help/members-3/latterdaylenin/ Latterday Lenin

            What.

          • http://wordsmoker.com/help/members-3/latterdaylenin/ Latterday Lenin

            I honestly didn’t know this place existed when I made this joke. It’s a rather unfortunate name for a restaurant. I would take some prophylactic Pepto Bismol before setting foot in there.

          • http://wordsmoker.com/help/members-3/misslinda/ misslinda

            It’s on Las Olas? I’m going to make my sister take me there for brunch next time I’m in town. It looks like the kind of place where she can order an egg white omelet with no cheese and a salad with dressing on the side instead of toast or hash browns and not receive any side eye from the waitress.

          • http://wordsmoker.com/help/members-3/chillbearlatrigue/ Chillbear Latrigue

            @MissLinda: Nearly all of the restaurants on that street are of the variety where ordering something exactly as it’s printed on the menu will get you that look from the server (I see no reason to be sexist).

  • http://wordsmoker.com/help/members-3/latterdaylenin/ Latterday Lenin

    Have you started reading The Shadow God yet? I’m pretty sure YOLO is the kind of place Craig and his buddies patronize after one of their tennis games.

    • http://wordsmoker.com/help/members-3/chillbearlatrigue/ Chillbear Latrigue

      Not yet. I anticipate starting it in the next day or so.

      YOLO inevitably has a Lamborghini parked out front. It’s right next to a place called Vibe. It’s impossible to discern which idiots are attending which bar/restaurant. I may actually write a short “Officer’s Monologue” about this place. With that in mind, I don’t think I’m going to describe it anymore.

  • http://wordsmoker.com/help/members-3/militantrubberducky/ MilitantRubberDucky

    I have to eat red meat in small portions and at spread out intervals. Hamburgers, steaks, whatever, I can not stomach it very often (you can imagine my revulsion at watching Monsieur Latrigue putting away the above-pictured steak during our writer’s meetup). Give me a good chicken or pork or seafood dish and I am good. So, now that you know that about me, you’ll also know how damned odd it is that NOW, at 2:00 in the morning, I want a 5 Guys bacon burger, which I’ll slather in BBQ sauce, and an order of fries, which I cover in ketchup and mustard (natch). Not sure if that craving will hold until they open tomorrow; if it does, I’ll share a picture of my spoils with you before they fulfill their destiny of sitting on my lady hips.